If the marks you referred to look like pencil lead, you should use a paste wax on the table. I don't know how much you paid for the PC table, but most out there are overpriced, like you said. I have used this for about a year and have never removed the router. This is the router raiser that I mentioned from Shopnotes. I can raise it plenty high enough to change the bits from the top. The hole in the table is for raising and lowering the router. You can see the hinge I was talking about. Seemed like a good idea at the time, but I have never had to raise it. The top is two layers with a continuous hinge across the back so the upper layer can hinge up. I found the bench table legs at an auction for 2.50 each. Changing bits is no problem - lift out the router, change bits and go to work. Build your own dust collection system using your shop vac and some fittings from Home Depot. I built my own router table and use MDF with plastic lam on each side to keep it from warping. Oh, I forgot, I also made a router lift from a Shopnotes magazine issue a few months back. I looked at router tables and thought that they were both too small and too expensive for what they were. On top of the fence I mounted two Board Buddies to keep the material down. I also installed a couple of t-tracks and made up a quickie plywood fence. The doors slide nicely on the MDF, and the large table means I don't have to worry about my panels falling off. I built a 3' x 4' router table with an MDF top. Yes, I know that a shaper might be a better choice, but it is not an option at this time for a number of reasons.ĭoes anyone have suggestions? The amount of production time I am losing due to bit changes and resanding is not conducive to profit-making. (The base on my Makita comes off with no problem!) Is a new router purchase necessary? I also noted that the base on my router cannot be removed from the router itself. I've looked at the Mast-R-Lift and the Router-Lift so far. I've noticed several issues with the table.ġ) The aluminum leaves marks on the wood, which then require subsequent sanding.Ģ) The fence has a dust collector, but the majority of the sawdust seems to dump out under the table onto the floor and all over my shop.ģ) It is very hard to get the wrenches in either over, under, or over-and-under the table to change bits.ĥ) The vertical adjustment with the adapter knob is quite awkward. Finally, I bought the adapter kit that allows me to adjust the router height with a knob from under the table (as long as I hold the plunge arm up). I have a Porter-Cable 7519 (3.25HP, variable speed, plunge) router. With more than 30 years of experience in the router table and lift business, Woodpeckers immediately recognized the logic of a router designed specifically for mounting.I find myself using my router table more often lately (mainly raised panel doors). Woodpeckers is the exclusive North American distributor for SpinRite, and your point of contact for warranty claims and machine parts and service. SpinRite router motors carry a one-year warranty against defects in materials and workmanship. ![]() This router is built to be part of a routing system, period. And, there’s no hand-held base to sit on your shelf and catch dust. Even the switch and speed control dial have been positioned optimally for access in lifts and gantries. The 3.25HP motor has a 4.2" cylindrical body while the 2.25HP motor has a 3.5” body, and there are no tabs or pins on either version-making it effortless to mount the motor in most major brands of router lifts, including Woodpeckers PRL V2 420. The collet wrenches included with the SpinRite are offset, so you can reach down below table level to change bits, if necessary. The electronics that control the motor’s speed also provide the soft-start feature. Whether you’re ploughing a tiny 1/16" vee-groove or doing wide raised panel doors, you can always find the right speed for the job. ![]() If you’re a typical router user, you may never need anything other than 1/2" and 1/4", but with the ER-20 system, if you find a bit you want in 3/8" or 8mm, you can be sure you can get a collet to fit. You can get ER-20 collets in dozens of sizes from as small as 1/16" to a maximum of 1/2", in imperial and metric sizes. The closing taper is longer, smoother, and ground to a much tighter tolerance. Most have 8 segments, compared to the typical router collet with 4 or possibly 6. ER-20 collets have become the standard in the industry around the world.
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